This is probably one of the vastly underrated sports in America.. Not only are you at risk for some of the gnarliest injuries but you could potentially die. I truly have a lot of respect for everyone in the surfing community. Their humbleness and discipline is definitely something I look up to
It also brings a world class of friends. Yes everyone has their competitive side but everyone respects everyone else’s talent.
This is a remarkable thing to do.
Fighting fear was what really got me to see what people go through and the will to fight fear, something which I definitely have to keep doing. Not only do I recommend this movie but I highly recommend watching the diligence of the people involved In and Around the surfing community.